Schomacker Piano Rebuild Page Six
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46) The key bushings are fine fitted to the key pins so that each key has exactly the same amount of play as its neighbor.
47) The let off buttons are always replaced on my jobs. It is a very small expense and not worth skipping even if the original let off felt is in very good shape.
48) On this job, new hammers were installed onto original action parts. The wood of the original parts was not dried out so it was decided that it would be cheaper to repin the hinges (called flanges.) It is important that each flange be set at a very specific tightness. This tightness can be measured by a special gram gauge or by the number of swings that it allows the hammer to pass through. I usually check both of these. This ensures that each note is moving at the same speed and rebounding from the string at the same speed as its neighbor. If the pinning is too loose, the tone of the piano will be damaged and if it is too tight, the function of the note will be diminished. On this piano, the knuckles (rounded leather knobs shown on the undersides of the dowels (called shanks) that the new white hammers are mounted) were bolstered by placing extra material under the leather to reestablish their original shape which had become compacted and distorted over the years. Then the leather was cleaned of all old debris and bad attempts at lubrication. I like to use just a little powdered Teflon on the knuckles of a piano for lubrication. Then when the action is weighed off and evened out, more Teflon can be applied to individual notes to help even out the touch.
The action regulation on this unit did not include reweighing the action. It also did not include very extensive voicing. While both of those services are available and often practiced here they can be very expensive. I always do a careful regulation on the actions of even the lowest cost restoration. However, if concert perfection is required in the touch of your action, then I recommend reweighing the entire action. First the action gets a very careful regulation. Then it is played for a while to get it "pounded in." After the action has been pounded in, it gets regulated again.
Then each note is weighed for both downweight (how many grams are needed to make the key drop) and upweight (how many grams of weight you remove before the key comes back up again.) The difference in these measurements will tell me if there are problems with friction being uneven somewhere in the piano. After the friction problems are solved, the action will then usually feel very even. However, if absolute perfection is required and cost not a factor, then the lead weights in the keys can be removed and altered and relocated as needed.
After the action has been regulated (and reweigh) the hammers are voiced. I always like to go through my hammers to make sure that they are even and producing as much sound as they are capable of. It would take a long dissertation to explain that task! For those who require total perfection, the actions are voiced very carefully in the room the piano will be living in so that the tone can be adjusted to that room.
49) Rebushing the pedals.
50) Putting the pedals back together.
51) The pedals reassembled.
52) I use the good spray equipment to clear coat the freshly polished hardware. This ensures a smooth finish that is free of dust and orange peel.
53) Repairing the veneer on one of the legs.
54) Refinishing is probably the least profitable and most labor intensive part of piano restoration. This picture, which must be seen to be appreciated, shows the lid of this piano after it has been rubbed out and polished.
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